Giacomo Fenocchio
Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont
Claudio Fenocchio’s estate is comprised of prized vineyards (14 hectares in total) spanning across Cannubi in Barolo, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, and Bussia in Monforte d’Alba, where his cantina rests at the crest of the hill.
In April of 1989, Claudio’s father, Giacomo passed away, leaving him to take over all farming and winemaking duties for the estate. These were challenging times for Barolo, Claudio explains. When many producers were pushing innovative ways to make Barolo, and having great commercial success, Claudio never strayed from the path of tradition. Just like the four generations that preceded him (the estate was founded in 1864), Claudio continued producing his wines with the time-honoured techniques of the classic style: organic farming, with long fermentations on the skins and aging only in large Slavonian oak casks.
Not much has changed today, except for a few more vineyards, and a new winery. But he continues his commitment to making wines with a classic and authentic expression, and with an unwavering focus on purity of fruit. Claudio’s wines display a level of terroir clarity that only producers of higher echelon manage to produce. He is a rising star winemaker in Italy with a bright future.
The cantina, homed in a new building, is relatively modern. Stainless steel tanks (as well as wooden fermenters) for fermentation and the production of white wines along with the lush, bright reds of their introductory range. Then, there are the venerated staples, made in large Slavonian oak casks dominating the pristine cantina. Claudio is partial to ambient yeasts for fermentation, and though current macerations are long, he has been experimenting with ones that last as long as 90 days – an exploration of past methods that is yielding very interesting results.
The Baroli of Giacomo Fenocchio are a masterful combination of purity and tradition, finely detailed and terroir-focused that shows their grandeur seamlessly.
In October of 2014, The New York Times rated Fenocchio in second position in a tasting of 2010 Barolos – coming behind only Elio Altare and ahead of Elio Grasso, Massolino, and Vietti.
In April of 1989, Claudio Fenocchio assumed all farming and winemaking duties his father Giacomo had previously held. These were challenging times for Barolo. When many producers were exploring new avenues to produce Barolo, and finding great commercial success, Claudio never strayed from the path of tradition. Just like the 4 generations that preceded him, he perpetuated the time-honoured techniques passed on to him.
Today, Claudio remains committed to crafting classic wines with an authentic expression and an unwavering focus on purity of fruit. Claudio’s wines display a level of terroir clarity that only producers of higher echelon manage to create. The Giacomo Fenocchio estate is comprised of prized vineyards (14 hectares in total) spread across Cannubi in Barolo, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, and Bussia in Monforte d’Alba, where the family cantina rests.
Modernity has found its way in the cantina. Stainless steel tanks and wooden fermenters coexist. They’re used to produce the whites along with the lush, bright reds that made the estate’s renown. Then, there are the venerated staples, made in large Slavonian oak casks dominating the pristine cellar. Claudio is partial to ambient yeasts, and though current macerations are long, he has been experimenting with ones that last as long as 90 days – an exploration of past methods that is yielding very promising results.
His vineyard management philosophy revolves around the enhancement of the various characteristics of the soil in each parcel, favouring optimum picking time to obtain fruit able to reach optimal ripeness and with a unique aromatic and flavour profile.
These wines will dispel monotony with their fine detail and unique charm. Each of them displays the grandeur of its origins seamlessly in a masterful combination of fruit purity, site expression and prestigious tradition.
2022 Docetto d’Alba
Despite the raving reviews and success of late, both commercially and in the wine press world, Claudio doesn’t plan on resting on his laurels. In fact, he’s been working on the acquisition of new vineyard holdings in Bussia, a region in which he fondly believes. His love for his place of origins and respect for the Piedmontese traditions defined the fundamental principles inspiring his work today.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Monforte d’Alba’s Bussia cru. It grows on 30-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian clay, blue marl and tuff. The vineyard is West facing. It’s hand-harvested by the end of September, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 10 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months. The wine spends 6 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It’s a typical everyday wine, with a vivid expression of the Langhe territory. It shows great presence and generosity of fruit aromas and flavours – blackberry and hints of violet, cocoa, black pepper and even earthy undertones.
2021 Barbera d’Alba Superiore
In addition to producing striking Barolos, Claudio delivers a delicious Barbera d’Alba offering amazing value for money. Here’s a Barbera d’Alba that’s full of gusto. It’s rich and intense with a great personality and so representative of the Langhe. This is a crowd pleaser.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Monforte d’Alba. It grows on 30-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian clay, blue marl and tuff. The vineyard is West facing. The fruit is hand-harvested in mid-October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 10 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 6 months. The wine spends 6 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It has a deep ruby hue with garnet reflections. The nose is intensely perfumed with raspberry, cherry and strawberry characters echoing on the silky, juicy palate. It’s full bodied with a pleasant level of acidity lifting spicy balsamic notes that carry on for a while.
A big, juicy balanced Barbera which finishes long. It has mounting tannins and clean red cherry and flinty plum nuances. This is lovely, but take note that Fenocchio’s best wine outside his many Barolos is his benchmark Freisa. Ian d'Agata, Decanter
2021 Langhe Nebbiolo
Claudio’s ambitions shifted in the early 1960's, with an eye to foreign markets. Today he exports a large portion of his wines, thereby building a name and reputation for his brand as well as the Piedmontese territory. The wines have remained classic, without significant variations, loyal to treasured traditions that were instrumental in creating the Giacomo Fenocchio identity.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from the greater Langhe. It grows on 15-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian clay, blue marl and tuff. The vineyard is West facing. The fruit is hand-harvested in mid-October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 10 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 6 months. The wine spends 6 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It has a deep ruby red hue with garnet reflections and an intense and fruit-forward bouquet filled with plum, wild berry and cherry. There are also classic notes of rose and tar. The palate is rich and well balanced with silky tannins and hints of liquorice. So easy to love.
2021 Langhe Freisa
Nebbiolo’s little-known relative, the more rustic Freisa, displays similar traits including light hues, high tannins, acid drive, and an especially great ability to age. As far as varietal expression and potential to captivate, Freisa fits the bill. In this case, it’s more subdued than the Nebbiolo based wines, much like the marginal sites it hails from. Its name is inspired from the Latin word ‘freisa’, meaning strawberry.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from the greater Langhe. It grows on 15-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian clay, blue marl and tuff. The fruit is hand-harvested early October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 8 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 6 months. The wine spends 6 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
A complex and cheerful wine reminiscent of brambly fruit – wild berries and sun-ripe strawberries – with sweet and sour rhubarb compote undertones, complete with a Campari bitter edge.
2019 Barolo Classico
Claudio is effectively a master whose specialty is to craft Barolos with unbelievable pedigree…his hands-off approach in the cellar guarantees that each terroir comes across. Standing on the terrace of his house sitting on top of the hill overlooking his Bussia Sottana vineyards, he demonstrates just how small the entire Barolo growing area truly is: two hills over to the left of his Bussia vineyard is Cannubi, while on the right is Villero, the next hill over.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from the greater Langhe. It grows on 20-year-old vines sitting at 350m above sea level on Helvetian clay, sand and limestone marl. It’s hand-harvested early October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
The Barolo Classico offers the full breadth of Nebbiolo characteristics, plenty of dark fruit combined with spice, tar and tilled earth, and a marked liquorice signature. The palate boasts deep black and purple fruit, with typical tar and graphite. Not only does it show an alertness and great precision, but also a big-picture approach to Barolo with wholesome flavours.
2019 Barolo ‘Bussia’
Bussia is renowned for creating one of the most authentic expressions of Barolo in Monforte d'Alba. It’s been affectionately cultivated by the Fenocchio family for over 30 years. Covering an area of about 5 hectares, it enjoys optimal exposure to the South allowing a constant sun exposure and a soil composition conferring structure and complexity to Barolo. Giacomo Fenocchio highlights the most distinctive features of this icon of the Langhe hills, with a finesse that will only enhance with time.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Monforte d’Alba’s Bussia cru. It grows on 35-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian clay, calcareous sediment and iron rich soil. It’s hand-harvested mid-October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
Bright ruby colour of good depth, garnet tints. The bouquet suggests more savoury stuff than fruity, the discrete berry and a black rose scents a little masked by dried blood, rusty nail, dried herb and liquorice aromas. The palate is also complex and savoury, the subtle fruit sweetness balanced by sapid elements and ferrous minerality, the tannins authoritative and mouth-coating, the whole building to an intense and long finish A wine of excellent depth and presence.
91 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
96 pts. Stephen Blandford, The Real Review
2019 Barolo ‘Castellero’
It’s the second year this wine is produced using fruit from the Castellero cru (it previously went into the Barolo Classico). The vineyard is located between Bussia and Cannubi (next to Sandrones Cantina). Barolo Castellero offers all the attributes that make the Fenocchio Barolos so attractive. It’s bold and savoury, with exceptional balance and energy.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Castellero. It grows on 10 to 45-year-old vines sitting at 280m above sea level on Tortonian soil, marl, and sand. It’s hand-harvested during the first fortnight of October, naturally fermented in stainless steel and macerated on skins for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It has an alluring bouquet - crushed mint and rose petals, fresh leather - harmonising with intense wild berry aromas. It’s full-bodied and shows the restraint of its youth. The palate is plump and dense with ripe cherry, strawberry compote, and star anise along with elegant tannins that will unwind nicely with time. 93 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
2019 Barolo ‘Cannubi’
Perhaps the most famous hill in Italy, Cannubi is the most celebrated and prestigious vineyard with the Barolo designation. Historically, it's the oldest Italian cru, recognised in 1752. Everything here conspires to create greatness: the perfect combination of altitude, exposure, soil composition, and microclimate result in a Barolo of uncontested prominence.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Cannubi. It grows on 30-year-old vines sitting at 280m above sea level on Tortonian soil, marl and sand. It’s hand-harvested during the first fortnight of October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
The Barolo Cannubi is fabulous. It’s sumptuous and opulent with the structure to match. It sets the tone from the very first taste - rose, sweet red cherry, fresh mint, and sweet incense – a few of the many notes that jump out of the glass. On the palate, it stands firm with gravitas and sensuality. It’s the complete package.
92 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Aromas of underbrush, new leather and botanical herb mingle with a whiff of tobacco. Linear and vibrant, the full-bodied palate shows tart red cherry, red currant and star anise before finishing on a green walnut note. Tight, close-grained tannins and bright acidity keep provide support. 93 pts. Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast
Liquorice root, raspberry and red fruits, new leather and gentle spice and pepper. Medium-bodied, calm mineral acidity, fine talc-like tannin, quiet succulence and composure. Strawberry and spice with a twist of orange on a long cool finish. Excellent. A charming wine, and an excellent result from 2018. Classic. 94 pts. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2019 Barolo ‘Villero’
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Villero. It grows on 65-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian soil made of clay, calcareous sediments and rich in iron. It’s hand-harvested during the first fortnight of October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It’s vibrant and youthful, with delicate yet luscious strawberry, redcurrant and cherry aromas and a rosy scent. The palate is fleshy with well-rounded tannins that are ripe and extremely polished, resulting in a wine that’s opulent yet not overdone.
Floral, violet and roses, almond paste, red fruit, sage and tobacco. Medium-bodied, juicy almond and red fruits, mouth-perfume, freshness, fine chalky tannin, very good, very long, and all class. Beautiful expression of Villero. Really good. It’ll take a little more time to roll out, for sure, though I’m thinking this vintage will reward handsomely with medium-term cellaring. 95 pt. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
The 2018 Barolo Villero is gorgeous. It captures the intensity of this site married to a super-classic expression of Nebbiolo. Sage, menthol, licorice, spice, tobacco and incense are woven throughout a core of dark red/bluish fruit. There’s plenty of depth here, the tannins just need time to soften a bit. 94 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Woodland-berry, new leather, camphor and fragrant blue-flower aromas align in the glass. Showing youthful tension and depth, the palate is still immaturely austere but delivers juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry and licorice alongside firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. 96 pts. James Suckling
2016 Barolo ‘Bussia’ Riserva
The "90 di" refers to the time-honoured tradition of submerging the cap for 90 days prior to racking. The traditional technique submerges the floating cap of skins by placing planks of oak in a parallel pattern inside the tank to stop the skins from rising to the top. It is then filled with wine to displace all the air and sealed closed. The skins are therefore fully submerged in the wine. This process allows for an elegant transfer of the wine as it retains some of the desired elements found in the skins. Sealing the tank minimizes contact with oxygen allowing post-fermentation to be controlled and extended over a longer period.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Bussia. It grows on 30-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian soil made of clay, calcareous sediments and rich in iron. It’s hand-harvested in mid-October, naturally fermented in stainless steel, including maceration on skins for 90 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 4 years. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It has a bright garnet red hue with orange reflections. The nose has intense aromas typical of Nebbiolo - rose, truffle, weathered leather. On the palate it has hints of black cherry, truffle, sweet spices, and notes of dried herbs. By this point, the tannins seamlessly complement the tertiary characters adding considerable depth and complexity to the persistent finish.
Cedar, camphor, and oak-driven aromas dominate the nose. Reflecting the aromas, the full-bodied, extremely concentrated palate offers vanilla, coconut, tons of liquorice and hints of coffee bean alongside, dried cherry, powdered sage and blood orange. Assertive, close-grained tannins provide the austere framework. Kerin O'Keefe, Wine Enthusiast
Bright and clear garnet colour. A beautiful bouquet of pristine berry fruit, subtle baking spices, dried herbs and liquorice, warm chalky soil and minerality. The palate is wonderfully poised, with fresh and vibrant fruit flowing over the tongue, a little orangy wash of tangy acidity, clove and liquorice all supported by ultra-fine, gossamer tannin giving great carry on the finish. A wine of refined elegance and a real joy to drink. 98 pts Stephen Blandford, The Real Review
2015 Barolo ‘Bussia’ Riserva
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from Villero. It grows on 65-year-old vines sitting at 300m above sea level on Helvetian soil made of clay, calcareous sediments and rich in iron. It’s hand-harvested during the first fortnight of October, naturally fermented in stainless steel for 40 days, then matured in stainless steel for 6 months and in large Slavonian oak for 30 months. The wine spends 12 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
It’s vibrant and youthful, with delicate yet luscious strawberry, redcurrant and cherry aromas and a rosy scent. The palate is fleshy with well-rounded tannins that are ripe and extremely polished, resulting in a wine that’s opulent yet not overdone.
Floral, violet and roses, almond paste, red fruit, sage and tobacco. Medium-bodied, juicy almond and red fruits, mouth-perfume, freshness, fine chalky tannin, very good, very long, and all class. Beautiful expression of Villero. Really good. It’ll take a little more time to roll out, for sure, though I’m thinking this vintage will reward handsomely with medium-term cellaring. 95 pt. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
The 2018 Barolo Villero is gorgeous. It captures the intensity of this site married to a super-classic expression of Nebbiolo. Sage, menthol, licorice, spice, tobacco and incense are woven throughout a core of dark red/bluish fruit. There’s plenty of depth here, the tannins just need time to soften a bit. 94 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Woodland-berry, new leather, camphor and fragrant blue-flower aromas align in the glass. Showing youthful tension and depth, the palate is still immaturely austere but delivers juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry and licorice alongside firm, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. 96 pts. James Suckling