Tenuta di Fessina
This small, mesmerising Etna estate has the great fortune of a selection of high-altitude vineyards in each the Northern, Eastern and Southern quarters of the Etna DOC where they source fruit mainly from ancient Carricante and Nerello Mascalese vines. Fortunate and historical vineyard acquisitions aside, the considered, low impact winemaking and peerless attention to detail have placed Tenuta di Fessina firmly in the upper echelon of small producers in Etna.
The wines from here (especially the thrilling whites) have amassed a borderline cult following, and one which will be further reinforced by this release of scintillating, acid driven wines from the past few vintages. I am sure the combination of classic harvests, wonderful sites and the guiding hand of current custodian Jacopo Maniaci mean this small release will be regarded as a benchmark for the estate. Followers of these wines will not be disappointed.
We are pleased to also offer a few cases of the new cuvee ‘1911 Contrada Moscamento’ that uses fruit sourced from a centenary vineyard planted in the Contrada Moscamento. 1911 refers to the year of the famous volcanic eruption of Etna and the lava flow that shaped this Contrada/Cru, resulting in a site that is supremely rich in basalt, iron and manganese.
Vintage Report:
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Summer heat waves, followed by heavy rains of May and June (the crucial flowering season), may have had a negative impact on fruit set, thus reducing production by about 35%, but this made for a harvest higher in quality than quantity. Overall, a warm, dry late-summer and early-autumn has ensured that the grape quality is good. Furthermore, Etna’s consortium reports that Etna Bianco DOC grew by almost 20% and Etna Bianco Superiore DOC by 120% from previous years, suggesting that Etna whites are getting noticed as a competitive alternative to white Burgundy with as high a pedigree and quality, gifted with elegance, power and minerality.
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The 2022 vintage was excellent, for it required a great deal of tactical and strategic interventions from winemakers to reach its peak. It produced healthy grapes with a perfect acid-sugar balance, great quality, with fresh and balanced whites and well-structured and complex reds. Sicilian winemakers demonstrate, once again, their extraordinary ability to manage the influence of climate change, thanks to the variety of the native wine heritage, biodiversity, and unique microclimates in the different areas.
2023 Erse Etna Bianco
LUC $60.00
It epitomises the fresh, clear and vertical character of the the whites that grow on the volcanic lands of Mongibello. This Etna Bianco shows off Carricante’s mix of blade-sharp acidity and mineral texture, along with complexity that grows with age.
Winemaking:
This wine is mainly composed of Carricante with some Catarratto (10%) grown in 3 different contrade around Milo. The vineyards are situated between 900 and 950 meters above sea level. Some are south facing and some east facing. The high altitude creates a cool, well-ventilated climate with notable temperature variations, which favour slow and even ripening. The bunches are delicately pressed, then the must is cold settled before fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled temperature. The wine rests in stainless steel tanks for a few months before bottling.
Tasting Notes:
The Erse Bianco maintains an outstanding structure and driven acidity. the nose is filled with esters and aromas of pear, green plantain characters, mixed with ripe lemon, yellow kiwi and a hint of lemon-flavoured mints. This year’s Erse Bianco boasts a fuller palate, packed with flavour and complete with a saline spray and a puckery feel on the long finish.
2022 A' Puddara Bianco
LUC $84.00
A’Puddara is a cru made from 100% Carricante from old bush vines. It refers to the stars that can be seen from the sea on the summit of Mount Etna in summer, the Pleiades, called in dialect "A' Puddara". Produced in the Manzuedda district of Biancavilla, on the southern side of Etna, 900 meters above sea level, it is an authentic mountain wine, combining fruit freshness and a hidden smoky vein. It’s reminiscent of the eternal snows of the summit and the ardent volcanic flames. It’s earned Tenuta di Fessina many national and international awards since 2009, their first vintage.
Winemaking:
The bunches are pressed whole without destemming after careful selection in the vineyard and on the sorting belt in the cellar. The pressings are then cold settled, then fermented in 3500 litre French oak barrels. The wine rests on fine lees for 12 months in oak, then 12 months in bottle.
Tasting Notes:
A’Puddara is always met with great enthusiasm, thanks to its searing acidity and expressive composition. But this year, it’s showing a more austere side. It has intense aromatics of fennel seed, wet stone characters, green kiwi, white flowers and a tangy green-ish lemon-like note. The subtle oak adds layers of textural complexity to the long, refreshing finish.
2019 Il Musmeci Bianco
LUC $182.00
SOLD OUT
The Etna Bianco Superiore Musmeci embodies the contrast between cold perennial snow and the heat of Etna. Tenuta di Fessina’s seminal vineyard encompasses an 18th century mill built from lava stones, where the grapes are processed.
Winemaking:
100% Carricante. The vines were planted in 1920 on milo soil, facing South at about 1000 meters above sea level. The fruit is naturally fermented in stainless steel. The wine is lightly filtered and aged in the finest French oak barrels for 6 months, then 24 months in bottle before release.
Tasting Notes:
The 2019 Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Caselle Il Musmeci is wickedly spicy and fresh, with zests of lemon and sweet mint complemented by a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, hazelnut, and hints of vanilla bean. It boasts silky textures and is more savoury than anticipated, with tart orchard fruits and notes of raw almond that fill the senses. The 2019 Caselle Il Musmeci finishes lightly structured yet long, with hints of young peach and mango that linger, along with a residual burst of acidity that keeps the energy high. Nearly a minute goes by, and there’s still a lemon-ring bitter note that lingers. Wow. 93 pts. Eric Guido, Vinous.
Carricante vines between 90 and 100 years old in a high-elevation vineyard at 900 meters above sea level on the charred slopes of Mt. Etna in Milo (Contrada Caselle) supply fruit for this wine. The Tenuta di Fessina 2019 Etna Bianco Il Musmeci opens to a very transparent appearance with shimmers of shiny gold and green. It offers lots of acidic tension and fine aromas of white peach and citrus. The mineral element with sea salt and oyster shell is also very prominent. It almost tastes salty. Only 1,000 bottles were created. 93 pts. Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
2023 Erse Rosato
LUC $50.00
Often described as the truest volcanic wine of the line-up. It sits well apart from the other classic rosés, in fact, inching closer to a red wine than a Provence rosé. This one couldn’t be from anywhere but Etna.
Winemaking:
This wine is made of Nerello Cappuccio and a bit of Nerello Mascalese from the external, cooler edges of the Rovittello vineyards. The grapes are gently destemmed and crushed after careful selection in the vineyard and on the sorting belt in the cellar. The batches are vinified separately with cold maceration to capture light colour and aromas. They are then blended for fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.
Tasting Notes:
Aromas of wild cherries and strawberries leap out of the glass. The palate is savoury, saline even, and filled with a sour cherry flavour and notes of wild herbs. It’s showing its Nerello pedigree through the lightest lick of tannins adding length to the generous, warming palate.
2022 Erse Etna Rosso
LUC $50.00
This is a blend of Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese, grown on east-facing vineyards, therefore sheltered from the afternoon heat. It’s dedicated to the Greek goddess of dew. It shows intense fruit and a pleasant freshness. Elegance and strong sense of place are its two main attributes. Full-bodied and silky, it satisfies the taste of those looking for a daily wine with the strength of Nerelli and immediate enjoyment.
Winemaking:
The fruit comes from a 70-year-old vineyard situated in Rovittello, North of Etna. The vines sit at 700m above sea level. The fruit is gently destemmed, co-macerated and fermented for 9 days in stainless steel at controlled temperature. The wine sits on skins from 12 to 13 days (compared to 23 to 24 in the past) and aged in stainless steel for 6 months, and in bottle for 12 months before release.
Tasting Notes:
Such a beautifully composed Etna Rosso, and possibly the most terroir-driven of the wines from this new release. Freshly tilled earth, truffle and red cherries and raspberries fill the nose and the palate, complemented by liquorice, thyme and other fresh herbs. It’s vibrant with grippy tannins, so moreish.
2020 Erse Rosso 1911 Contrada Moscamento
LUC $65.00
This wine finds its origins in the 1911 eruption that spared a selection from old vines growing amongst the lava rock that formed a volcanic trench rich in basalt, iron, and manganese, in Rovittello. Through this ‘cru’, Tenuta di Fessina focus on this volcanic fragment with a unique micro-climate – shaped as an amphitheatre, which ensures that the Nerello grapes ripen slowly and evenly, resulting in wines with a strong indentity, elegance and depth.
Winemaking:
The Nerello Mascalese is partially destemmed (20% whole bunch), macerated and fermented for 9 days in stainless steel at controlled temperature. The wine sits on skins from 6 to 9 days, then fermented and aged for 24 months in large French oak barrels, then 12 months in the bottle to guarantee finesse and structure.
Tasting notes:
Wonderfully composed with aromas and flavours of wild blackberries, baked herbs, lavender, freshly tilled soil, and developing notes of button mushroom. The whole bunch characters shine through nicely with intense yet well-rounded tannins. It has yet to develop. Delicious nevertheless.
2019 Il Musmeci Etna Rosso
LUC $77.00
The reserve is made of the oldest vineyard on the estate panted in 1932, and only in the exceptional vintages. The Musmeci cru is surrounded by a clos, a wall made of a combination of volcanic rock and the natural path of the lava formed over centuries. Though not quite pre-phylloxera as some in Etna are, this ancient site produces what we believe is Tenuta di Fessina’s most significant red wine.
Winemaking:
100% Nerello Mascalese from 90-year-old vines of the Musmeci cru situated in Rovittello, North of Etna. The vines sit at 700m above sea level. The juice is fermented in 500L barrels (30%) and botti (70%), then macerated on skins for 15 days. The wine spends a total of 18 months in large French oak, then 24 months in bottle before release. It’s unfiltered.
Tasting Notes:
It has changed significantly in recent vintages, particularly as the large oak ‘botti’ have seasoned. Now, it is very much a volcano wine, earthy and smokey with caramelised meat and liquorice characters. The palate carries on with salinity and plenty of intense yet fine tannins that add length to the finish.
There’s something very grounding and penetrating about this wine, perhaps the rich volcanic earth characters, combined with dark chocolate coated cherry, or the sweet liquorice, mouth-watering guanciale fat and undergrowth characters forming an aromatic profile so typical of old vine Etna. After a bit of aeration, the palate gives way to lush and youthful fruit and soft-edged tannins of the finest calibre. Lengthy and so complex. 92 pts. Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
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