Cirillo Estate
Barossa Valley, South Australia
There are very few stories in Australian wine as compelling and legendary as those of Cirillo Estate. Custodians of what are believed to be the oldest Grenache and Semillon vineyards in the world (planted in 1848), Marco Cirillo continues the legacy of his father’s years of toil amongst these incredible vine rows amongst the sand and clay of Light Pass, between Nuriootpa and Angaston. Far from simply relying on the novelty of these ancient vines, Marco actively works to display the outstanding detail and nuance of the fruit from these vineyards.
Cirillo’s wines are not only identifiable for the ancient vineyards used for their production, but the depth of character, elegance and energy packed into each bottle. Layers of complexity that can only come from old vines which for over a century have been tended by hand. Grenache is king here and was well before the variety began again to gain favour in the past few years. Accompanied by a suite of classic Barossa varieties (and a wicked Malbec) including the equally old-vine 1850 Semillon, the range of Cirillo Estate wines is a bottled representation of the best of modern and ancient Barossa Valley
2019 Semillon ‘1850 Ancestor Vine’
In Australia, Semillon has long been known as a thin-skinned variety chosen for making botrytised sweet wine. When picked early, it produces a dry, light-bodied, crunchy style of wine such as the 1850 Ancestor Vine Semillon. This fruit hails from a single vineyard believed to be the oldest in Australia, if not the world. With the 1850 Ancestor Vine Semillon, Marco successfully showcases the versatility of Semillon grown in the Barossa Valley, by giving it the attention it deserves. Pair with yabbies and roasted garlic mayonnaise.
Winemaking:
The fruit is hand harvested early in the season to retain a high natural acidity. It is fermented in stainless steel and bottled early without oak influence for instantaneous gratification.
Tasting Note:
It has a crystalline pale yellow with an iridescent green rim. The nose is intensely perfumed with bright lemongrass, orange blossom and a distinctive mineral character. The fruit fills the palate with a sinewy structure and focused acid line redefining the perfect balance of sweet and sour. This is an exciting Semillon made for immediate drinking and even cellaring for years to come.
The 2019 Sémillon 1850 Ancestor Vine, made with fruit from vines planted before 1850, opens up with precise, youthful melon and citrus aromas, plus a distinctive touch of beeswax and lanolin. Lightweight and acid-driven with a well-placed touch of grip, it delivers a textural experience punctuated by zesty acidity through to a silky, fine and surprisingly lengthy finish. It is definitely built to last and worth waiting a decade to enjoy. 93 pts. Angus Hughson, Vinous
2021 Rosato ‘1850 Ancestor Vine’
The Ancestor vineyards grow in pure golden sand, a common terroir of the Vine-Vale area. Today, the early basket-pruned vines are a picture of health and produce superb fruit each year. The 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache Rosato is unique in that it is made from some of the oldest Grenache vines in existence. Unlike other pale coloured, savoury rosés, it is packed with flavour and offers a richer mouthfeel, which makes it suitable to dishes like satay chicken or crispy pork belly.
Winemaking:
The precious Grenache berries’ skins are bled off a little to create this bright ruby colour. It is then fermented naturally in stainless steel and bottled without fuss, with some lovely fruit sweetness remaining.
Tasting Note:
The cheerful pink hue gives off a raspberry cordial vibe. The nose lets out a bunch of ripe cherry, strawberry, pomegranate, and sweet blackberry notes. The palate has lovely length with a crisp finish. It is seriously good but doesn’t take itself too seriously.
2022 Grenache ‘The Vincent’
“The Vincent is a thank you to my father who has passed eight generations of Italian winemaking and grape growing knowledge down to the ninth”, Marco says. In the late 1970s Marco’s father, Vincent bought one of the oldest vineyards in Australia, with rare Grenache vines planted in 1848. As their custodian, Marco considers himself a viticulturist first and foremost, tirelessly caring for them and crafting authentic wines that offer incredible value and gratification. As a bright, cheery quaffable wine, it proudly stands at odds with other more oaky, sweet-fruited traditional Barossa Grenache wines, and will sing with Crispy quail with caramel soy sauce and Asian slaw.
Winemaking:
Given the exceptional nature of the material planted in 1901 and 1906, and especially 1850 on Marco’s family estate, any excessive winemaking intervention is redundant, and Marco relies on his smell, touch, and taste to make his mark. The wines are made in the vineyard and as Marco says, “if you grow it well, it makes itself comfortably without manipulation”.
Tasting Note:
A fraction of whole bunch adds spicy notes of white pepper, and with that a superb aromatic and flavour intricacy to the generous palate. The fruit is balanced with subtle clove and vanilla spice characters imparted by seasoned French oak barrels. The lively red cherry and wild blackberry characters make for a candid varietal expression and a mouth-watering sensation that begs for another sip.
Made with fruit from vineyards planted in 1901 and 1906, the 2022 Grenache The Vincent offers up delicious aromas of raspberry compote, dark cherry and deep earthy tones with an attractive line of spice. It is a juicy number with fresh tangy acidity providing an initial bite before settling into layers of raspberry and cranberry flavors. Savory, meaty tones sit in close support before a lengthy, although slightly closed finish. Drink young with a quick decant or age for a couple of years for optimal enjoyment. 91 pts. Angus Hughson, Vinous
2018 Grenache ‘1850 Ancestor Vine’
The fruit is grown on the most favourable (sandy) soils known to create fruit of such high calibre. This single vineyard is famed for having the oldest Grenache vines in the world. With such prestige comes a deep sense of responsibility and attachment to a land that has been in Marco’s family’s care since 1970.
Winemaking:
The wine is matured in French seasoned hogsheads for 24 months. This is one of the few Australian Grenaches that will reward over a decade of patient cellaring.
Tasting Note:
“There are aromas of dark berry fruit, dried herbs and spice. The palate is medium to full‐bodied with intense yet subtle delicate flavours of cherry, aniseed, white pepper and savoury notes. Matured in aged seasoned hogsheads. The Cirillo Grenache is more about the variety than the oak. The tannins are so and long with great length. The balance between the primary fruit and the acid make this a beautifully seamless wine that mimics Rhone styles. One of the few Australian Grenaches that will reward over a decade of cellaring.” Marco Cirillo
“The 2018 Grenache Ancestor Vine is a little shy when first opened but grows in the glass into something quite special with ethereal aromas of cherry compote, animal skins and dark earth with a reserved background of French oak. Despite bottle age, the 2018 has a notable upfront acidity and freshness before opening to a velvet-textured palate with pliable tannins before a spicy/meaty finish. This is an earlier drinking vintage but will hold well over the medium term.” 95pts. Angus Hughson, Vinous.
2020 Mataro
The Cirillo Mataro is a celebration of Barossa Valley’s rich history and a tribute to the region’s old clonal material. Cuttings were taken from nine individual Mataro vines planted amongst the 1850 Ancestral Grenache vineyard. The nine vines were propagated in a nursery at the winery. They were then planted in 2005, as bush vines (no trellising) on the Cirillo estate. This small block only accounts for 60 dozen each year. Be quick to snap it up and enjoy it with roast snapper and sage breadcrumbs.
Winemaking:
Made naturally in open fermenters, gently basket pressed, then left to mature in seasoned French oak barrels for 12 months. This allows the Mataro to show its true terroir. A wine that can be forgotten in the cellar for the next 10 to 20 years.
Tasting Note:
Marco’s Mataro is generous and silky with beautiful depth. Caramelised meat and cracked black pepper spice add a rustic feel to the dry palate, also filled with wholesome black berry, plum jam, and super fine tannins.
2021 Shiraz
Barossa Shiraz has got to be the region’s best asset. Harnessing the long, warm summers and arid conditions to produce full-bodied wines with power and personality is no easy task, but one Marco masters year after year. A classic pairing for roast lamb, rosemary and garlic sauce, and crispy. potatoes.
Winemaking:
The fruit is sourced from a high-altitude vineyard situated on the border between Barossa and Eden, at Steingarten, and from a newly acquired vineyard adjacent to the 1850 Grenache vineyard. The grapes were fermented naturally in open fermenters, then basket pressed, and the wine was matured in seasoned French and American oak for 10 months.
Tasting Note:
A deep dark ruby coloured elixir with prominent scents of cocoa powder, dried mint, dark plum and sweet blackcurrant. The palate is just as enthralling with loads of sweet vanilla, dark chocolate, and liquorice spice hugging the fruit. It is supple and elegantly shaped, with a decent amount of fruit flavours owning up to the broody tannins in a long and memorable finish.